Would you say there is about 1/2 inch of movement of the axle in the dropout? (While still allowing the bolts/quick release to grab securely?) I think this would be enough for my purposes. I don’t want to create work for you, but a photo directly from the side of the axle, or a photo of the dropout without the wheel installed would be fantastic! Thanks, and happy trails!

Maybe some of the more experienced/knowledgeable commentors can give some insight on your other questions! Good luck!

I have been following you comments on the Windsor Tourist. I currently ride a Fuji Absolute 1.0 and am looking to start some touring – light touring, no camping gear.

Considering the LHT, Trek 520, Raleigh Sojourner and Windsor. Of course the Windsor wins hands down on price but I know if I have problems out in the middle of Montana that I will wish I spent the extra to get the LHT or 520. Also, will probably use this bike in my around town riding which is mostly of the 30 mile pleasure type on paved trails.

My biggest concern with the Windsor is the strength of rims / spokes, the Tiagra STI vs bar end shifters on the LHT / 520 and the Deore as it does not specify if it is LT or XT or else.

Any comments by yourself and others who view this would be appreciated. Thanks!

For example, with drop bars, you typically place your hands on the brake hoods most of the time, and you want to make sure you can comfortably do so for quick access to the brakes. This would probably require a shorter top tube than if you had, say, “cruiser” bars that are closer to you. There are many variables that affect reach, but top tube length is the most critical, since bike frames aren’t cheap.

Like Korey pointed out, you can dial in the fit by adjusting the stem length/spacers/angle and saddle height, but that should only be used for fine-tuning. You can make a bike that’s too big or too small work, but you’d be better off getting a proper frame to begin with.

My two cents. Most of my ideology comes from Peter White, Sheldon Brown, Rivendell, and like-minded cyclists; go check them out if you’d like to know more.

The cro-moly frame handles bumps well since cro-moly flexes well. Aluminum frames, however, are quite rigid and you’ll feel the bumps a lot more. Is the bike heavy? Yes, cro-moly does weigh more than aluminum. Then again, weight isn’t a very high priority issue with touring and commuting bikes, since they’re meant to carry groceries, camping gear, etc. and their meant to keep the rider comfortable. You aren’t going to set any speed records on a touring bike :-)

If you’re new to drop bars, you will definitely feel stretched out until you get used to them! But after 100 miles of riding on drop bars, riding a mountain bike will feel like you’re riding a tricycle. :-) I really don’t worry too much about body geometry (even though some cyclists would stone me for saying such a thing). I have 4 bikes that I bought online (a 20 inch MTB, 2 58 cm road bikes, and a 62 cm road bike). The 62 cm road bike gave me knee pain big time when I road it 100 miles in a day, but that bike is definitely too big for me (I’m 6 feet tall). I have an evenly proportioned body (my legs and torso are pretty average). If you buy a bike that has a frame that you know is close to what you need, you can fudge the geometry by adjusting your saddle height and your stem. That takes care of 90% of the adjustments you’ll need. If I were you, I would hop on a few bikes at my local bike shop and think about your body proportions (do you have long legs or a long torso?). That kind of decision has worked for me.

Yeah, that big 62 cm bike was my first bikesdirect.com purchase, back when I was a n00b. That bike still makes a fine commuter bike, though. I just don’t ride it for more than 10 miles at a time, hehe.

First you stated that you have taken this thing offroad, so, I was wondering how does the cro-moly frame handle the bumps and bangs? Also is this bike very heavy?

I notice your frame is a 58cm which is what I think I need, but i’m not positive. I am very nearly 6′ 2″ and I am fairly average proportionally. I know the standover height will be perfect for me with the 58, but what I’m unsure about is the top tube length. I’m new to drop bars and when I was test riding a bike at my LBS with drops, I felt really stretched out, and almost uncomfortable, especially when down in the aero position and not on the hoods. I am told that as long as I get the stand over height correct then the distance to the handlebars can be fixed by flipping the stem or getting a shorter stem.

Anyway, if you could maybe respond with your height, distance from groin to center of your collar bones, and the length from your shoulder joint to center of palm, that would really help me decide if this would be a good fit.

Hope you are enjoying your bike and thanks for the time to respond to my post!
-Austen

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6d/Quill_stem_4.JPG

You can search around online for how a quill stem and steering column is assembled for more details. Also, I remember my steering column clunking and jiggling around after assembling my Tourist and having to re-tighten everything down firmly, so keep that in mind.

Good luck!